DATELINE 2010 - SOUTH ISLAND NEW ZEALAND: When one of our followers posted a comment on our Facebook page saying the Burt Munro Challenge was now on her “To Do List" it felt like we had kicked a goal.
It was gratifying to know that the sponsorship provided by Venture Southland had yielded a return.
It is the sort of trip that should be on everyone's bucket list, although I did agree when the Co-pilot said, "The pictures do not show how truly magnificent the place is."
The plan was to take a premium touring motorcycle and spend eight days riding and reporting from the lower NZ mainland.
Coverage of an event with more different types of motorcycle races than you will probably ever see in one meeting - The Burt Munro Challenge - and it is hard to think of a better ride ... anywhere. The South Island of New Zealand is a truly wondrous place.
Christchurch to Queenstown
We flew Auckland to Christchurch and met Robin and Ryan Hampton at their Hornby showroom. There they introduced us to the ride, a beautiful GL1800 Gold Wing — henceforth referred to as “The Wing”.
The Honda franchise is a purpose-built facility that came through the earthquake unscathed. They offer motorcycle, farm and automotive services across the range.
But the star of the show was Metallic Sky Blue and parked right out front, waiting for us to unload our suitcase, backpack full of cameras, sundries, laptop and personals into the ample luggage. It all fitted with a six-pack to spare.
Robin gave me a brief reacquaintance with the myriad of Wing controls and we soon had it pointed south.
Fizzing. I was driving Co-pilot mad with “How good is this?” and was keen to add to the mere 200km showing on the odometer.
The run down the familiar coastal stretch past Ashburton was spent partly relearning all the controls. There are around 60 buttons and switches in a Wing cockpit.
But dial in the cruise control, check the onboard thermometer, hovering in the pleasant mid-20s, fiddle with the stereo volume — and y'know, do all that 'normal' motorbike stuff.
We were sitting in consecutive lounge chairs, watching the spectacle of the changing scenery unfold.
Over a picnic in Ashburton Gardens we sussed the GPS, entered the address of the Mercure in Queenstown into the integrated system and simply followed the little red arrow to the turnoff to Geraldine, along Route 79, and eventually picked up SH8 at Fairlie.
The towering Alps, still with an early-summer dusting of snow, were slowly drawing closer.
We rolled into the Mackenzie District and conditions were pretty much perfect as we passed the first patch of lupins by the roadside.
Just a few long, sweeping bends beyond that first splash of colour was Lake Tekapo, gleaming in an amazing azure as we anticipated our first good look at Mt Cook not far beyond.
As it was, crossing the open basin floor on the Wing, marvelling at the big southern skies and the distant ramparts climbing away in every direction, was simply delightful.
It did not disappoint. Even in the late afternoon there was not a cloud in the sky as we stopped at the head of Lake Pukaki and drank in the magnificent scene. We would have liked to travel further along Route 80, to the foot of the 3,754m giant, but the shadows were lengthening and our night in Queenstown beckoned.
Through Lindis Pass and on into Central Otago via Cromwell for the first time on this tour, we eventually wound through the Kawarau Gorge and into Queenstown for a late dinner and time to watch the last vestiges of daylight disappear over the aptly named Remarkables.
South to the Burt
Day two and the excellent weather still prevailed. It was already warm as we made our way along one of my favourite parts of the ride south, SH6 down the Lake Wakatipu foreshore past the Devil's Staircase.
Majestic vistas spread out before us with snow-capped peaks to frame the glistening lake scene. Truly remarkable.
Past Kingston, at the foot of the lake, the Alps again recede to the west and the sprawling foothill country eventually gives way to the plains of Southland. Green, lush and rich countryside took us the rest of the way to our destination, the Ascot Park Hotel in Invercargill and the Burt Munro Challenge.
The Burt Munro Challenge is a week-long festival of New Zealand motorcycling, featuring beach races, speedway, street races, Teretonga circuit racing, hill climbs, the Toy Run, bike shows, cruises and the Burt Munro Memorial Run.
Ascot Park is Invercargill's largest hotel, offering both motel and hotel accommodation and a range of conference and function facilities. Our room was comfortable and the facilities were first rate for the four nights we stayed. The steaks in the Emberz Restaurant are worth a mention.
Bike parking was right outside the back door to our room and riders were made very welcome. It is a theme that runs through the town all festival long: welcome. The Mayor even goes on the Toy Run.
Invergiggle
First stop - The Museum
The Southland Museum's Burt Munro display provides an excellent introduction to the legendary speed pioneer, with motorcycles, memorabilia, photographs and personal artefacts celebrating New Zealand's most famous motorcycling son.
Next stop - Richardson's Transport World
Originally assembled by Southland transport entrepreneur Bill Richardson, this remarkable collection has grown into one of the world's finest transport museums. More than 300 immaculately restored trucks, cars, commercial vehicles, petrol bowsers and transport artefacts are displayed across several huge exhibition halls. Even if heavy vehicles aren't normally your thing, the quality of the restoration and presentation is simply outstanding.
On to the Racing!
The racing program spans almost every discipline of motorcycle competition. Riders contest beach racing, hill climb, speedway, long track, street racing and Teretonga circuit races on everything from vintage classics and sidecars to modern superbikes, with each event producing its own winners. In later years points were accrued for an overall winner.
The Long Track
Held on Invercargill's significant trotting track, the Long Track produced spectacular broadslide racing as solos, sidecars and quads drifted through the dirt corners with a serious run-up.
The Hill Climb
The Bluff Hill Climb challenged riders with a steep, twisting blast from sea level towards Bluff's summit. Spectators lined the course as competitors attacked one of the festival's most demanding events.
The Beach Racing
Oreti Beach provides one of the highlights of the Challenge. To see all manner of motorcycles racing on the wide, hard-packed sands, where Munro tested his famous Indian, creates a uniquely Southland spectacle of speed, noise and flying sand.
Teretonga Circuit Races
Teretonga's fast 2.62km circuit hosted a full programme of Burt Munro Challenge racing, with classes ranging from vintage and post-classic machines to Motards, Supersport, Superbike, BEARS, Formula bikes and sidecars.
Teretonga Speedway
The speedway meeting brought together solo and sidecar competitors for a full evening of racing on Invercargill's clay oval. It was another well-supported event on a packed festival programme.
Wyndham Street Races
35 kilometres north-east of Invercargill, Wyndham hosts one of the Burt Munro Challenge's signature events. For one day each year the quiet Southland township becomes a hay bale-lined street circuit for racing across a wide range of motorcycle classes.
The Catlins - at last
After four days of putting together the best BMC coverage we could muster, we were ready to hit the road again.
Near the end of the Wyndham street race program we remounted the Wing and made our way back to the south coast at Fortrose for our first ride through the Catlins.
Two previous attempts had been abandoned due to near cyclonic weather, so it was special to make our way east along the Southern Scenic Route ahead of a following sea mist in warm, calm conditions.
We fuelled up at Fortrose, which was something of an experience in itself.
“I would like some fuel please,” I said, pointing to the pumps outside the information kiosk at a well-patronised restaurant.
“Are you eating?” was the reply.
“Yes please.”
“Well, I will get these other people and you their food and then we will get the fuel,” said the manager.
The Wing stayed parked on the driveway, fuel flap akimbo, while the Co-pilot enjoyed local whitebait fritters and I had another fabulous Southland steak. Seriously - the food on the entire trip was NZ-fresh- phenomenal.
Thanks to the Invercargill crew we bumped into, who not only recognised my KR insignia, but were familiar with our exploits. They gave us some local knowledge and with that we were off to Curio Bay.
We took the sealed, inland route and then doubled back to Curio Bay past Niagara.
The fossilised remains of an ancient forest are exposed at Curio Bay during low tide. It is one of the most extensive and least disturbed examples of a Jurassic fossil forest in the world and stretches about 20km from Curio Bay south west to Slope Point.
It is not too far from Niagara Falls. There is a classic bit of Kiwi humour. Duly signposted and named, they are the least impressive waterfalls imaginable. A stormwater gutter sees more action, but they are quite picturesque nonetheless, as are the rest of the Catlins.
Not far past Niagara the sign proclaims “56km of winding road” and the route begins to wind through Catlins Forest Park.
This outstanding stretch of motorcycle road snakes through steep hills of native bush to the coast at Papatowai, where it continues to wind amongst the foothills that eventually give way to coastal plains and farmland beyond Owaka.
Kaka Point
It really was a great ride, absolutely primo, and by the time we arrived at our base for the night, the 'Nugget View and Kaka Point Motels', we were very happy travellers.
Our host Bruce delighted in pointing out that his bike-friendly accommodations are just two minutes' walk from the bathing and surfing beach, shops and a short bush walk.
We were a bit late for the town tour so settled in to a very nice meal at The Point Café and Bar just down the hill.
Then we retired to our comfortable room and balcony overlooking the town, the point and the sunset, where not long after we slept very soundly to the tune of the rolling surf. Idyllic.
On to Cromwell
Day Seven - Route Eight
Apart from a morning shower or two in Invercargill the weather on this tour had been close to perfect. We had a succession of warm, sunny days with sea breezes, and the way day seven started was no exception.
It was not hard to look at the sleepy Kaka Point township in these idyllic conditions and think “sea change”, but further adventures awaited so we loaded up the Wing and headed north for Balclutha.
After a short stint on SH1 we made the turnoff to the southern arm of SH8 and headed towards Roxburgh, Alexandra and our day's destination in Cromwell.
It was not the original plan, but it worked out great to have completed the length of Route Eight in two separate stages, meeting in the middle.
Along the coastal fringe the road winds through foothills lined with dense pine, beech and eucalypt forests before joining the Clutha River valley, which it follows until the climb to Central Otago.
The terrain changes from a kaleidoscope of green, yellow and dense lushness, to a fertile valley rich in agriculture, to rocky barren wilderness, in the space of 50km before descending to the wide, rolling highland plains.
Coming in to Alexandra the onboard thermometer showed 30c and the sun was blazing. We stopped for a photo under the Alex bridge before heading towards Clyde, its dam and the Cromwell Gorge. It is a fascinating ride through the gorge as the road skirts the reaches of Lake Dunstan all the way to the bridge at Cromwell.
An ADV ride bonus
Two Daves, a Duffy and big scenery.
We were only a few minutes late as we crossed the bridge and pulled in to our destination at 'Hills of Gold Bed and Breakfast', run by Central Otago Motorcycle Hire.
I have a few friends who do things properly. Dave and Janeen's B&B and bike-hire business reminded me them.
Dave is a bloke who has actually made that sea change we had talked about at Kaka Point. He left the corporate world behind and used his nous to set up a business that left me very impressed.
On his Cromwell property is a shed that houses several Hogs, a GS, a few V-Stroms, a couple of Transalps, numerous 250 trailies and scooters, with helmets, jackets and kit to suit all of them — all for hire and available to ride around one of the most spectacular regions anywhere. And we struck it all in perfect weather.
“Come on, I will show you a bit of our back yard,” said 'other' Dave. An hour after I arrived, two Daves and a bloke called Duffy were fanging-it up the side of Ben Nevis.
Co-pilot stayed at base and wrote some articles while I climbed aboard a rental Transalp and the others grabbed Honda 250s.
We then travelled along New Zealand's highest public road to its summit, snapped a few pics and descended to the Nevis Valley floor.
It was real 'Lord of the Rings' country and it provided my first chance to marvel at the Remarkables from the other side as we made our way along the easy gravel road to Nevis: population three, sometimes 14.
We had a scratch around the old mining equipment in the valley, visited the golf club and messed about in a few water crossings — there are 25 on the Nevis Road — before heading back for a cleansing ale at the Bannockburn pub and the ensuing superb pure NZ BBQ and a bottle or two of the local Pinot.
We then retired to the very comfortable B&B, which sleeps up to five. It is a place I could have spent a week exploring. Maybe next time. Highly recommended.
Motorcycle touring in the lower South Island is another world: you, the road, the incredible place and your machine.
Reality Beckons
Day eight dawned with us feeling 'slightly bleary and worse for wear and tear' and the weather somewhat the same.
Warm, overcast to cloudy conditions greeted our retracing of SH8 back to the coast below Ashburton, where we wheeled north and followed the little red arrow on the Honda GPS back to Hampton Honda's front door.
A bit over an hour later we were on a plane heading back to Auckland.
It took a few days back in the office for the altered reality of a tour like this to wear off.
What a remarkable odyssey we had just undertaken, full of amazing places and engaging people.
Motorcycle touring in the lower South Island of New Zealand is a truly superb experience, particularly if you can jag the perfect conditions we enjoyed this year.
It is another world where all that matters is you, the Co-pilot, the road, the incredible place and your machine.
A world where how far to the next fuel stop, the beat of the engine, the rhythm of the road and the imminent weather are the priorities, and the humdrum of day-to-day is long a distant memory.
What a place to do it.
Go do it.
Simply outstanding and we are glad to have had the opportunity to tell everyone.
Thanks for that Facebook post, Rachel.
The Bike
The Honda GL1800 Gold Wing turned the long haul into a lounge-chair view of the South Island.
THE FULL BIKE TEST IS HERE
The Roads
From SH8 and Lindis Pass to the Catlins and Nevis Road, the route was motorcycle touring gold.
The Event
The Burt Munro Challenge gives Invercargill a festival atmosphere and a proper reason to ride south.
Tour Notes
Start / finish: Hampton Honda, Christchurch.
Main stops: Queenstown, Invercargill, Kaka Point and Cromwell.
Key roads: SH8, Lindis Pass, SH6 beside Lake Wakatipu, the Southern Scenic Route, the Catlins and the Nevis Road.
Best advice: allow more time than you think. Every hour there is another lake, mountain, gorge, beach, café or stretch of road that deserves a proper look.